Wednesday, July 13, 2016

Newberry's Crater Rim Loop Trail #3957

Newberry's Crater Rim Trail is a fun and challenging loop hike that is mountain bike friendly. After working in the Newberry National Monument for 9 summers I finally got my chance to get my bike on trail. Of course, there is a normal way of doing things, and there is my way. My way can involve extra time, extra risk, and usually; involves the opposite of what most people would do in a given situation. I had been looking at this trail for some time and decided to make it more challenging by starting at Swamp Wells Trailhead #61 on the north side of the monument. It adds 8+ miles extra to an already difficult and strenuous ride. From T.H. #61 to the Crater Rim trail #57 is 4 miles all uphill with some steep pitches. Unless you need extra challenges and you start at 6 AM, I would advise against this start. It's almost worth it for the exhilarating ride down, although I got on a wrong trail in the dark due to my speed and had to negotiate a map and compass route to the car. I was happy I did not have to spend the night out, even though I had the essentials with me-I had to be at work in the morning!



Once at the jct. with the Crater Rim trial, I went west-southwest 6 miles downhill to Paulina Lake. My brakes were smoking, my arms were rubber, and my adrenaline spiked as I left the trees at the lakeshore. At this point near the Newberry Welcome Station, you are presented with trail options. You can ride up the Paulina Peak road 3 miles (difficult) and access the Crater Rim trail there, or you can access the Newberry Crater Trail ride to East Lake where you connect back to the Crater Rim trail. I choose this route due to time concerns and I really wanted a swim in East Lake. Keep in mind that the trail to Paulina Peak is Hiker only, so those who bicycle have to ride the road to access the southern portion of the Crater Rim Trail. I rode out through the Cinder Hill campground at East Lake and continued up to the Rim, a steep 2-mile climb. There I encountered the only other person/biker on the trail, and he was surprised to see me!

At this point, it was starting to get dark and I still had 6 miles to go. I found the #61 jct. and headed north downhill. I was having so much fun blasting thru the scenery that I ended up on a snowmobile trail. And before I knew it I had probably dropped 2 miles or so down the wrong trail! So then with map and compass (which did not show the snowmobile road #48), I knew that northward would lead me to the 9710 road where my car was parked. But the idea of bushwhacking under headlamp and spending the night outdoors and missing work, made me turn around to find out where I went wrong. After backtracking for 15 minutes I decided to just follow the trail which was headed generally north. Luckily for me, I ended up on the 9710 road, Whoo Hoo! Now I just need to find my car under the moonlight.

Paulina Peak stretches nearly 8,000 feet above sea level and a hike to the top give you a birds-eye view across the High Desert. It is hard to fathom as you drive through the summit area that you are within a 17 square mile caldera at the summit of a 500 square mile volcano, a volcano that remains very active to this day. Newberry is both seismically and geothermally active. Geologists believe the caldera sits over a shallow magma body only 2 to 5 kilometers deep. Visitors see numerous cinder cones (over 400 throughout the area), miles of basalt flows, as well as rhyolite flows of obsidian. Miles of hiking trails run through the Monument, offering visitors year round opportunities for hiking and exploring.

 One of the largest shield volcanoes in North America, Newberry Crater is all that remains of a mountain that once towered above the central Oregon basin. In the not so distant geological past this mountain was over 10,000 feet in height but centuries of violent eruptions and the eventual collapse of the entire summit have left only a huge crater in its place. The 21-mile long rim of this crater varies in height but Paulina Peak is clearly the high point at nearly 8,000 feet. This peak offers views of all the Cascade mountains from Adams to Shasta and of the Oregon desert to the Southeast.

The Crater Rim Trail really is one of Oregon's gems. Put it on your list of things to see.

Being on trail, leaving behind all the stress and worry of everyday living, is where I want to be. It can lead to satisfying lessons and challenging situations. You simply cannot know what you might find when you begin down a trail. The unknown is yours to discover! 



Joey Michael Hodgson is a Fire Lookout, firefighter, kayaker, chainsaw carver, writer, and musician. Check out his blog @ https://thelookoutlife.blogspot.com and current music @ https://www.reverbnation.com/thelookoutsband

Facebook group page @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/Onthelookout/

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Mount Thielsen: One of Oregon's Greatest Hikes



As you leave the trail head parking area a smooth easy trail presents itself for the first mile or so. Thru a forest so quiet you can hear your brain winding down as your legs go into autopilot. Then as you break out of the trees: Bang! You are treated to some stunning views of this imposing mountain. This is where I pondered my ability to reach the summit. It just looks gnarly from here!  Timberline is at approximately 7200 feet elevation. The mountain hemlock-true fir type is predominant. Inviting glimpses of Mt. Thielsen are evident along the trail. A breath taking view of Mt. Thielsen presents itself just beyond the Spruce Ridge Trail junction 1.6 miles. 
The trail enters Mt. Thielsen Wilderness before you reach the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail at 2.9 miles. Here the glacial features of this volcanic peak loom before you. From the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, a scramble trail works its way to the spire pointed peak at 9,182 feet elevation. The trail is a steep climb, particularly above timberline beyond which there are no markers. The last 200 feet is a difficult hand-over-hand climb. Elevation gain is 3,782 feet.                                                               

 I stopped and had lunch on a small ledge just below the last 200 feet of technical climbing. I climbed up far enough to realize that one slip would be the end of me so I cautiously backed down the rock. Out of the 20 or so hikers I encountered on this fine summer day, only one made the true summit. He was an experienced climber and had done many similar climbs. I would suggest NOT climbing this unless you know exactly what you are doing, it is Sketch!
Hiking boots and caution are highly recommended for climbing on the loose rocky slopes. 
The view of the east and west sides of the Cascades, from the Sisters to Mt. Shasta, is incredible.
The mountaineer’s route to the top of Mount Thielsen is rated a class IV to 5.1 scramble and is not considered a technical climb. Yet exposure on Mount Thielsen is extreme and there have been more fatalities on this route than have occurred on all the technical routes on the Umpqua National Forest combined.
Gear: A light rack and light rope should be considered for the scramble of the last 80 feet from Chicken Ledge to the summit when there are inexperienced climbers in your party.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            MountThielsen is a dramatic horn-shaped peak located in the Southern Oregon Cascades just north of Crater Lake. The peak rises abruptly from its surroundings to a very distinct spire. Its north and east faces are most impressive, towering 2200 feet upward in a near vertical fashion. Due to its dramatic spire shape, its dominance among other peaks in the region and the unstable weather this region receives Mount Thielsen is said to be struck by lightning more often than any other High Cascade peak, earning it the nick name the lightning rod of the Cascades.  History:
Originally Mount Thielsen was informally named Big Cowhorn. It was one of two “cowhorn” peaks in the area along with Little Cowhorn, both peaks were capped with dramatic spires that resembled the horns of a cow. Later on the names faded away. In 1872 the peak was officially named Mount Thielsen by John A. Hulburt of Portland in honor of Hans Thielsen, a prominent railroad engineer and builder. In 1911 a storm blew the pinnacle off Little Cowhorn, and today Little Cowhorn is known as Cowhorn Mountain

If you are rabid hiker like me (excuse the foamy drool) you'll want to put this hike in your lineup. As I continue to tick off items on my bucket list, I realize how fortunate I am to be able to do all these things when others can't for various reasons. In sharing my experiences, I hope to bring interest and enthusiasm for not only the hike itself, but in these beautiful places that we need to conserve for future generations.


Joey Michael Hodgson is a Fire Lookout, firefighter, kayaker, chainsaw carver, writer, and musician. Check out his blog @onthelookout@blogger.com and current music @ https://www.reverbnation.com/thelookoutsband

Facebook group page @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/Onthelookout/