Newberry's Crater Rim Loop Trail #3957

Newberry's Crater Rim Trail is a fun and challenging loop hike that is mountain bike friendly. After working in the Newberry National Monument for 9 summers I finally got my chance to get my bike on trail. Of course, there is a normal way of doing things, and there is my way. My way can involve extra time, extra risk, and usually; involves the opposite of what most people would do in a given situation. I had been looking at this trail for some time and decided to make it more challenging by starting at Swamp Wells Trailhead #61 on the north side of the monument. It adds 8+ miles extra to an already difficult and strenuous ride. From T.H. #61 to the Crater Rim trail #57 is 4 miles all uphill with some steep pitches. Unless you need extra challenges and you start at 6 AM, I would advise against this start. It's almost worth it for the exhilarating ride down, although I got on a wrong trail in the dark due to my speed and had to negotiate a map and compass route to the car. I was happy I did not have to spend the night out, even though I had the essentials with me-I had to be at work in the morning!

Once at the jct. with the Crater Rim trial, I went west-southwest 6 miles downhill to Paulina Lake. My brakes were smoking, my arms were rubber, and my adrenaline spiked as I left the trees at the lakeshore. At this point near the Newberry Welcome Station, you are presented with trail options. You can ride up the Paulina Peak road 3 miles (difficult) and access the Crater Rim trail there, or you can access the Newberry Crater Trail ride to East Lake where you connect back to the Crater Rim trail. I choose this route due to time concerns and I really wanted a swim in East Lake. Keep in mind that the trail to Paulina Peak is Hiker only, so those who bicycle have to ride the road to access the southern portion of the Crater Rim Trail. I rode out through the Cinder Hill campground at East Lake and continued up to the Rim, a steep 2-mile climb. There I encountered the only other person/biker on the trail, and he was surprised to see me!

At this point, it was starting to get dark and I still had 6 miles to go. I found the #61 jct. and headed north downhill. I was having so much fun blasting thru the scenery that I ended up on a snowmobile trail. And before I knew it I had probably dropped 2 miles or so down the wrong trail! So then with map and compass (which did not show the snowmobile road #48), I knew that northward would lead me to the 9710 road where my car was parked. But the idea of bushwhacking under headlamp and spending the night outdoors and missing work, made me turn around to find out where I went wrong. After backtracking for 15 minutes I decided to just follow the trail which was headed generally north. Luckily for me, I ended up on the 9710 road, Whoo Hoo! Now I just need to find my car under the moonlight.

Paulina Peak stretches nearly 8,000 feet above sea level and a hike to the top give you a birds-eye view across the High Desert. It is hard to fathom as you drive through the summit area that you are within a 17 square mile caldera at the summit of a 500 square mile volcano, a volcano that remains very active to this day. Newberry is both seismically and geothermally active. Geologists believe the caldera sits over a shallow magma body only 2 to 5 kilometers deep. Visitors see numerous cinder cones (over 400 throughout the area), miles of basalt flows, as well as rhyolite flows of obsidian. Miles of hiking trails run through the Monument, offering visitors year round opportunities for hiking and exploring.

 One of the largest shield volcanoes in North America, Newberry Crater is all that remains of a mountain that once towered above the central Oregon basin. In the not so distant geological past this mountain was over 10,000 feet in height but centuries of violent eruptions and the eventual collapse of the entire summit have left only a huge crater in its place. The 21-mile long rim of this crater varies in height but Paulina Peak is clearly the high point at nearly 8,000 feet. This peak offers views of all the Cascade mountains from Adams to Shasta and of the Oregon desert to the Southeast.

The Crater Rim Trail really is one of Oregon's gems. Put it on your list of things to see.

Being on trail, leaving behind all the stress and worry of everyday living, is where I want to be. It can lead to satisfying lessons and challenging situations. You simply cannot know what you might find when you begin down a trail. The unknown is yours to discover! 

Joey Michael Hodgson is a Fire Lookout, firefighter, kayaker, chainsaw carver, writer, and musician. Check out his blog @ https://thelookoutlife.blogspot.com and current music @ https://www.reverbnation.com/thelookoutsband

Facebook group page @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/Onthelookout/

Mount Thielsen: One of Oregon's Greatest Hikes

As you leave the trail head parking area a smooth easy trail presents itself for the first mile or so. Thru a forest so quiet you can hear your brain winding down as your legs go into autopilot. Then as you break out of the trees: Bang! You are treated to some stunning views of this imposing mountain. This is where I pondered my ability to reach the summit. It just looks gnarly from here!  Timberline is at approximately 7200 feet elevation. The mountain hemlock-true fir type is predominant. Inviting glimpses of Mt. Thielsen are evident along the trail. A breath taking view of Mt. Thielsen presents itself just beyond the Spruce Ridge Trail junction 1.6 miles. 

The trail enters Mt. Thielsen Wilderness before you reach the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail at 2.9 miles. Here the glacial features of this volcanic peak loom before you. From the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, a scramble trail works its way to the spire pointed peak at 9,182 feet elevation. The trail is a steep climb, particularly above timberline beyond which there are no markers. The last 200 feet is a difficult hand-over-hand climb. Elevation gain is 3,782 feet.                                                               

 I stopped and had lunch on a small ledge just below the last 200 feet of technical climbing. I climbed up far enough to realize that one slip would be the end of me so I cautiously backed down the rock. Out of the 20 or so hikers I encountered on this fine summer day, only one made the true summit. He was an experienced climber and had done many similar climbs. I would suggest NOT climbing this unless you know exactly what you are doing, it is Sketch!

Hiking boots and caution are highly recommended for climbing on the loose rocky slopes. 

The view of the east and west sides of the Cascades, from the Sisters to Mt. Shasta, is incredible.

The mountaineer’s route to the top of Mount Thielsen is rated a class IV to 5.1 scramble and is not considered a technical climb. Yet exposure on Mount Thielsen is extreme and there have been more fatalities on this route than have occurred on all the technical routes on the Umpqua National Forest combined.

Gear: A light rack and light rope should be considered for the scramble of the last 80 feet from Chicken Ledge to the summit when there are inexperienced climbers in your party.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            MountThielsen is a dramatic horn-shaped peak located in the Southern Oregon Cascades just north of Crater Lake. The peak rises abruptly from its surroundings to a very distinct spire. Its north and east faces are most impressive, towering 2200 feet upward in a near vertical fashion. Due to its dramatic spire shape, its dominance among other peaks in the region and the unstable weather this region receives Mount Thielsen is said to be struck by lightning more often than any other High Cascade peak, earning it the nick name the lightning rod of the Cascades.  History:

Originally Mount Thielsen was informally named Big Cowhorn. It was one of two “cowhorn” peaks in the area along with Little Cowhorn, both peaks were capped with dramatic spires that resembled the horns of a cow. Later on the names faded away. In 1872 the peak was officially named Mount Thielsen by John A. Hulburt of Portland in honor of Hans Thielsen, a prominent railroad engineer and builder. In 1911 a storm blew the pinnacle off Little Cowhorn, and today Little Cowhorn is known as Cowhorn Mountain. 

If you are rabid hiker like me (excuse the foamy drool) you'll want to put this hike in your lineup. As I continue to tick off items on my bucket list, I realize how fortunate I am to be able to do all these things when others can't for various reasons. In sharing my experiences, I hope to bring interest and enthusiasm for not only the hike itself, but in these beautiful places that we need to conserve for future generations.

Joey Michael Hodgson is a Fire Lookout, firefighter, kayaker, chainsaw carver, writer, and musician. Check out his blog @onthelookout@blogger.com and current music @ https://www.reverbnation.com/thelookoutsband

Facebook group page @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/Onthelookout/

South Sister: One of Oregon's greatest hikes!

South Sister in the Oregon Cascades. A fantastic hike and scramble with breathtaking majestic mountain views.

The South Sister, also known as Charity, is Oregon's third highest mountain. The hike to the top is very difficult, but there is a trail that goes all the way to the top and can be done without any technical mountain climbing gear. Although on this Sunday in late June 2016, everyone I saw (39 people total) needed some kind of traction device in the steep snowfields, to keep them from sliding to their death! I had shoe chains, crampons would have been better. One group turned back due to improper footwear. They had tennis shoes. This climb deserves more respect than it gets. There have been many incidents over the years on this mountain including fatalities from falls.

The hike can be done in a day, and usually takes between 7 and 10 hours round trip. The hike to the top is about 6 and a quarter miles long (12 round trip) with a 4900 feet elevation gain. I started my hike on a recent Sunday at 7:00 AM and returned at 5:00 PM, 10 hours total. This was my 4th time on the Summit. My goal is to summit again in late September to see the changes in the hiking and scenery. My wife Shannon and our niece Savannah summited in 2014. It was an epic hike for both of them. Savannah got her finger smashed by a rock and had the skin peeled back. It was pretty bad, luckily some fellow hikers had first aid and helped her hike out as well.

The mountain itself is a volcano that is around 50,000 years old and last erupted 2000 years ago.

As you hike you will pass Moraine Lake, and the Lewis and Clark glaciers. At the top of the South Sisters, you will find Oregon's highest lake Teardrop Pool. 
The Three Sisters are often grouped together and seen as one unit, the three mountains evolved under differing geologic situations, and the petrologic composition of each mountain can vary significantly. Whereas North Sister is extinct and Middle Sister is dormant, South Sister last erupted about 2,000 years ago and still could erupt, threatening life within the region. After satellite imagery detected tectonic uplifting near South Sister in 2000, the United States Geological Survey made plans to improve monitoring in the immediate area.  


Known as Faith, Hope, and Charity. Faith is North Sister, Hope is Middle Sister, and Charity is South Sister. Shannon on top in 2014, myself in late June 2016.

Although I consider myself to be in the best physical shape I've been in in over 30 years, I still found this to be a challenging semi-strenuous hike. My goal is to attempt this summit every year for the rest of my life. There is so much here in Central Oregon to see and do that my personal bucket list is overflowing. I hope yours is too.


Joey Michael Hodgson is a Fire Lookout, firefighter, kayaker, chainsaw carver, writer, and musician. Check out his blog @onthelookout@blogger.com and current music @ https://www.reverbnation.com/thelookoutsband
Facebook group page @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/Onthelookout/

Fire Lookout Towers of Western Australia

Well, dang if it ain't finally Fire Season here in Oregon, USA! We've had a few good lightning busts here in Central Oregon, just enough to keep things interesting. I could go on about fire, but today I will talk a little bit about Fire Detection in the Land Down Under. A number of years ago, Shannon and I spent 3 months in Western Australia visiting friends and working with the Conservancy and Land Management. It was a lot of fun, and we learned a lot about wild and prescribed fire in Australia. 

Shannon working with crews on Prescribed burn

First thing you learn about fire here, is that everybody that lives here knows fire well. They've grown up with it as part of their lives, it is just part of every day to them. Most 12 year old's can tell you where to anchor a fire and how to put line around it, and when to step back. When we were there, everybody who worked for the agency had to spend two weeks of their year working with fire in some respect. Everybody got a piece of the action and learned some valuable knowledge about fire, land management, working on a team.

                                                                                                  There are a lot of different fire detection stations here. The scariest and most interesting are the tree towers. Basically, foresters use rebar and drill it into the tree in a spiral pattern to the top, where they build a "crows nest" in the crotch at the top of the tree. A lot of the trees have no safety, so you are free climbing, no slipping here! We spent many days hiking into old abandoned Lookouts and Lookout sites, it was always an adventure! 

Eight karri trees were adapted as lookout trees in Western Australia in the 1930s and 1940s. The 72-metre (236 ft) Gloucester Tree features a cabin in its top and may be climbed by visitors, as can the even taller 75-metre (246 ft) Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree.^[4] The Diamond Tree continues in occasional use as a fire lookout. I climbed the Diamond tree and it was a rush! Also the tallest 

metal tower in Australia is Styles Lookout at 226 ft tall! You climb a metal ladder straight up the

 middle to the cab. The gentleman above was the Lookout at the time. 

Landmarks here are hard to come by, and giving an accurate location seemed nearly 

impossible to us Americans! Smoke reports are frequently like this, "Head down to Cheryl's 

place take left fork, about 2 clicks NW, turn nears Lester's farm, and hike due North about a half

 click"!

Seeing Kangaroos hopping through the black right after a fire, was pretty cool for us. The engines and fire equipment used here is different from what we use in the US. In fact, everything about our stay was foreign to us. Camping out in the forest, which we did most nights, we never saw other campers. That's because only an idiot would camp out in snake country! Waking up to the bird sounds was so interesting because none of the birds sound like ours back home. Emu pies and cold beer, now that's my idea living large down under!

Thanks for reading. I will be doing a follow up to this article after I dig out my photos and information about our trip. G'day Mate'.


Joey Michael Hodgson is a Fire Lookout, firefighter, kayaker, chainsaw carver, writer, and musician. Check out his blog @onthelookout@blogger.com and current music @ https://www.reverbnation.com/thelookoutsband
Facebook group page @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/Onthelookout/

Utopia of Recreation: Chewaucan River Canyon

In the south central part of our great state of Oregon lies a magical river that is seldom visited. Most motorists driving thru the town of Paisley (it takes 20 seconds) never see the magical river canyon 5 minutes upstream of town. I have been kayaking this river now for several years when it flows during snow melt season. It has continuous class 2+3 whitewater in a scenic eastern Oregon canyon setting. The campsites along the river are spectacular and second to none.                                                                                                                                                                                                                


There is numerous trails up to the canyon rim. Some of which connect to the Fremont National Recreation Trail, a
mountain bikers paradise!

Trail Details

Season: summer, fall

Distance: 175 miles +/-

Hazards: remoteness, little water, few people, lots of mosquitoes, primitive trail conditions

Central Oregon Trails Association recently adopted this trail to assist the Fremont National Forest in keeping this trail open. This unexplored gem of a trail is not for the faint of heart or those who are easily lost. It requires significant route-finding skills, self-sufficiency and willingness to spend 8 or more hours on the trail. Shuttle options are available but also require good ability with FS maps and persistence. These skills are rewarded in spades with outstanding views, long climbs and descents and some of the most incredible scenery in the state. The trail itself would be more established if only more people would go ride it. Some small segments are also used by equestrians and hikers but to truly appreciate this trail a mountain bike is definitely the preferred mode of travel.

We have spent many spring days and nights here, kayaking, mountain biking, hiking, and even exploring by motorcycle. Summer Lake, Fremont Cabin, Hagar Mountain, and Morgan Butte are all nearby and accessible in late spring.

The Chewaucan River is part of the Great Basin drainage. It flows 53 miles (85 km) through the Fremont–Winema National Forests, Bureau of Land Management land, and private property in southern Oregon. The Chewaucan flows through Paisley and into what was once the Upper Chewaucan Marsh east of the town. The marsh is now pasture land, and the river’s flow through this area is controlled by a system of weirs and irrigation canals. The river is consolidated for a short distance as it leaves the upper marsh at The Narrows, where two fingers of high desert uplands force the river into a single narrow channel. The river then opens into the Lower Chewaucan Marsh approximately 7 miles (11 km) northwest of Valley Falls. Finally, Crooked Creek joins the Chewaucan just one mile (1.6 km) before it empties into Abert Lake, which has no outlet. Abert Lake and Abert Rim are spectacular formations that deserve their own blog post, suffice to say that they are definitely worth seeing. So put on your bucket list. If you are a paddler, this is a great place to multi-sport and have a base camp. The historic bar in Paisley is a great breakfast spot after a week of camp food! Look for more fun topics from me in the future @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/Onthelookout/. Until then, enjoy the summer and thanks for reading. 

Joey Michael Hodgson is a Fire Lookout, firefighter, kayaker, chainsaw carver, writer, and musician. Check out his blog @onthelookout@blogger.com and current music projects @https://www.reverbnation.com/thelookoutsband?profile_view_source=header_icon_nav

  

Forest Fire Lookout Association 2016 Conference

Lava Butte Fire Lookout 101st Anniversary 

August 17th 10:00-3:00 @Lava Butte Lookout

Come join current lookout staff, former lookouts, interpreters, forest service fire personnel, and Smokey Bear and celebrate one of Oregon's Historic Icons.

We will  have pictures, stories, fire ecology lectures, and presentations focusing on fire detection, and modern day applications.

 What is it like to be a modern day Lookout Observer?

Here at Lava Butte the Lookout job is a High Stress situation for the most part. We are surrounded by communities that rely and expect early detection and fire suppression. Your homes and businesses are important to us, and so is the surrounding forest. When a fire breaks, we are expected to give an accurate fire report in seconds, 

 delays and mistakes are unacceptable. Even with new technology, much of the job is the same as it was in your grandparents era. We must know every landmark in our seeing area intimately. Fires with the base not visible, as in fires behind a ridge or mountain, are very difficult to ascertain distance, and only experience and local knowledge of the area can keep you from chewing your nails to the bone hoping you got it right. During lightning storms we spend our whole day staring at clouds, sky, and forest, which can and frequently does lead to eye strain, headaches, and an overall feeling of exhaustion. Early detection, prompt fire reports, and excellent crews have kept the major fires at bay here in south deschutes country, at least for the 7 years I've worked here. As many of you know, high temperatures combined with low humidity, can be a explosive situation for fire growth and spread potential. And then wind changes everything. Be cautious this summer!

Joey Michael Hodgson is a lookout, firefighter, extreme kayaker, chainsaw carver, writer, and musician. Check out his blog @onthelookout@blogger.com  His latest music project@joey river black butte porter song contest